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Do you really need eye cream?

Are eye creams worth the money? Do they actually make a difference?

Depending on where you buy your eye product from, I strongly recommend an eye product from the age of 18, as the breakdown of collagen in our body can start from the age of 18.

Here’s why: the skin around our eyes is thinner, more sensitive, fragile, more prone to dryness, and quicker to show age and fatigue. We are constantly squinting and moving the eye area causing fine lines and wrinkles. For some people fluids collect under the eyes and cause puffiness and dark circles, eye cream can really address this.

But aren’t eye creams just more-expensive moisturizers in a smaller package?

Not necessarily, eye products are formulated specifically for the delicate skin around the eye, the active ingredients like muscle relaxing peptides are a lot more concentrated and anti-oxidants (to protect from free radical damage) are the right percentage, not to cause irritation around the eye area.

Because your eye area is so sensitive and the skin is so thin, it’s extremely important to be aware what we are using around that area. Your favourite creams may be too heavy and cause irritation, blocked pores or even yellow lumps(milia) under the skin. Also it can contain synthetic fragrance or perfume, essential oils or plant extracts too strong to use around the eyes.  

 

Good eye products should contain: anti-oxidants, cell-communicating ingredients such as peptides, fragrance-free formula, hyaluronic acid (for hydration), vitamin c and retinyl palmitate (gentle form of Vitamin A) to boost collagen production.

Dark circles under the eyes come from genes, sun damage, age, blood build-up and/or liver problems. Vitamin A can thicken the skin and help conceal dark circles after about 6 months. Niacinamide vitamin B3, and kojic acid can lighten dark circles. Vitamin K constricts blood so that can be used in eye creams to lighten up darkness.

Puffiness is a build-up of fluid and blood under the eyes. Other studies show that cold temperatures are just as effective to treat puffiness. That’s why some people refrigerate their eye creams.

Where should I buy an eye product from?

Don’t waste your money at a supermarket, chemist or even department store. Anything you can pick off the shelf won’t contain enough active ingredients such as peptides, anti-oxidants and vitamins at strong enough percentages.

Head to your local beauty salon and have a chat to a therapist about your concerns, whether it is puffiness, dark circles, dryness or just prevention of wrinkles and fine lines. They will be able to show you different products and explain how they work.

Skin Needling

What is Skin needling? AKA The Vampire facial 

Skin needling is based on the skin’s ability to repair itself whenever it encounters physical damage such as cuts, abrasions and other physical trauma. Immediately after an injury occurs our skin destroys old damaged tissue such as acne scarring and wrinkles and replaces it with new fresh healthy collagen. Skin needling allows for controlled micro “injuries” in the skin, which triggers a whole cascade of events that result in new collagen synthesis. The result is smoother, firmer and younger looking skin. A great treatment for all skin types especially patients with acne scarring, enlarged pores, and darker skin types not suitable for laser and fine lines.

Skin needling procedures are performed in a safe and precise manner with the use of the sterile disposable needle head. The procedure is normally completed within 40 minutes and is relatively comfortable. Skin Needling creates a “mini wound” which stimulates the release of growth factors that trigger the production of collagen and elastin, which is all part of the healing process. This new fresh collagen remodels over time. Sagging skin, stretch marks, pores and acne scars are all improved from skin needling because of this.

Skin needling Vs Ablative Laser?

The term ablative means that skin is ‘vapourised’ by the laser, that is, the skin is removed. Non-ablative implies that the skin is still intact. Examples of ablative fractional lasers include the fractional carbon dioxide or erbium lasers, and an example of a non-ablative fractional laser is the Fraxel laser. Generally speaking, ablative lasers tend to be more aggressive than non-ablative lasers, which usually means greater downtime, and that fewer sessions are required to achieve a certain result, but the risks may be higher as a result. 

Skin needling, as opposed to laser, produces no heat energy. This reduces the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (pigmentation that occurs after treatment or trauma to the skin). With laser the darker skin types are extremely risky, with skin needling any skin type can be treated with no own time. YAY!!

Numbing cream or No numbing cream?

For years Australia and New Zealand have been over using numbing creams. In the latest international dermatology training i have attended, other countries don’t even contemplate using the stuff.  I personally will not use the stuff if im trying to get good results on my clients. Numbing creams lead to constriction of the blood vessels on the face, so less blood from the treatment. More blood = better results for anti-ageing, scarring, pores and skin tightening. For blackheads, congestion and pigmentation you don’t need blood to get a good result, but your therapist also doesn’t need to go as deep so less pain. So NO need for numbing cream. Also patients can get flaking of the skin for up to 3 weeks from the numbing cream. And numbing cream sensitises skin so more pain and sensitivity is usually felt a few hours afterwards. Seems a bit silly now to use numbing cream hey?

Why do prices vary so much from place to place?

You get what you pay for is a saying i heavily believe in. If a treatment is crazy cheap then they have to be cutting costs somewhere. When it comes to skin needling the costs are:

Everything is sterile and disposable (let’s hope they are not cutting costs here).  The needles can only be used once!

The products they are using to needling into your skin (this should be expensive, because it should be hyluronic acid – which is expensive at a high percentage. Think dermal filler they are usually $450 or more per ml – that is hyluronic acid)

The therapist: This one is the biggest one! They need to know their stuff. There is no user manual that comes with a dermapen device. They need to understand the client’s skin and history. What the client uses at home and medications have a big impact on the results and treatments. How deep the therapist goes depends on so many factors and what they are trying to achieve. Are they treating pigmentation? Anti-ageing? Acne scarring?

Have a consult with the therapist performing the treatment (before hand)and ask them a bundle of questions. Ask to see their certificates on skin needling!

Is activated charcoal good for skin?

Charcoal is the new big thing in beauty products at the moment, but does anyone know what the benefits are?

Or do they just like it because Activated charcoal skincare products are pretty cool and every “insta famous” person is getting paid to endorse a charcoal product. They’re black, messy and they’re marketed to suck dirt out of your pores like a magnet – what’s not to like?

The reality is a little more complex than that…

Activated charcoal boasts beauty benefits for skin by drawing oil, dirt and other harmful substances from clogged pores due to its adsorption powers so there’s been an influx of beauty products that contain this all natural ingredient.

Often marketed as a acne miracle treatment since it absorbs oil and dirt.

Beauty brands are jumping on the band wagon with charcoal cleansers, charcoal masks, and even charcoal pore strips…

But do they actually work?

Jessica Wu, M.D., a Los Angeles dermatologist says there aren’t any scientific studies on the effects of charcoal in skin-care products. “There are some acne products containing charcoal because the idea is that the charcoal will bind to toxins, dirt, and oil and lift them out of the pores,” she says. “However, I haven’t seen any research to back up these claims.”

Think of it this way:

If it binds oil this means it can potentially clean deeper inside the pore, yes? However, I’m not sure a short amount of time that these products stay on your skin is enough, in studies on activated charcoal, it typically takes a few hours for it to take full effect. In these studies it’s added alone, in powdered form, to a water based solution and stirred, which results in much faster absorption than in a mask, where it’s suspended in a gloop. In beauty products charcoal is a very little percentage of the ingredient, not 100% like the studies. 

When i look at the ingredients of most charcoal skin care products, they contain other ingredients that have been proven to help oily and acne prone skins.

Like: salicylic acid, for example, and many charcoal masks contain kaolin or bentonite, a clay that actually has been shown to bind to sebum (skin oil).

I see a lot of charcoal blemish soaps on the market where the main ingredient is coconut oil, a very pore clogging oil to be using on acne &/or congested skin that already have this problem, please stay away from these soaps on your face. (A block of soap should never be used on a face no matter what the claims are).

The good news: Charcoal won’t causes reactions or irritate sensitive skin, so even if your charcoal-enhanced product isn’t actually doing much, it won’t make anything worse (if the product doesn’t contain other ingredients that will)!

The bottom line: There’s no concrete evidence that charcoal is an effective acne treatment, especially in products where it’s only a very little % of actual activated charcoal. Charcoal products just look pretty freakin’ cool.

Micellar Water

MICELLAR WATERS 

Marie Claire posted this article ‘Ditch the Cleanser: 6 reasons to make the switch to micellar water’ That’s got me saying ‘Hold up HUH?’  Had to read this rubbish and then blog about everything wrong about it!!!

Micellar waters were originally designed to be used for those occasional times when you have no access to water, like at the beach, travelling, flying, after a workout etc. 

I can NOT believe or understand people who think that using these micellar water products are ‘quicker’ than washing their face. If it only takes 10 seconds using micellar to wash your face, you’re using it incorrectly. A quick swipe across the forehead is not going to do it.
Add to that the constant rubbing of cotton wool and ingredients that aren’t exactly healthy, organic or nourishing for your skin. You are literally moving dirt and makeup around your face. (no science shows the benefits of just moving makeup around your face with micellar and cotton circle and just LEAVING it there).

Marie Claire article said: ‘Plus, it’s free of soap, fragrance, alcohol, and other abrasive chemicals that can wreak havoc on your complexion daily.’

NO NO NO, JUST NOOOOO These waters are all chemical, some contain alcohol and nearly all contain fragrance. 

Bottom line: Micellar waters do not emulsify oil, dirt &/or makeup, they are not better or a substitute for cleansing your face.

They can come in handy, i like to keep it in my gym bag, or to use after cleansing. It’s PERFECT for teenagers and kids that won’t or don’t like to cleanse their face daily. It’s the lazy mans product ok if you don’t wear makeup.  

Most importantly don’t use just any old micellar water. Most i have looked at are a chemical sludge that are just a NO NO !

My recommendation: O Cosmedics Micellar Gel RRP $39.99

Its biomimetic, multi-protective and cleansing action neutralises the effect of pollutants (including cigarette smoke and fuel exhaust) to prevent premature aging and skin damage. Clinic studies support luminous, healthy skin in only 7 days.

Press a cotton pad onto the pump-well, wipe gel over face, eyes and lips. No need to rinse. If wearing makeup remove it first with a gentle cleanser.

Why EFA’s are so important for your skin

EFAs are important structural components of cell membranes throughout the body. They help cells stay fluid and flexible, allowing nutrients to enter the cells and wastes to exit. EFA also “waterproof” the skin, creating an antimicrobial barrier against the elements. Without enough EFAs, your skin can suffer from dryness, free radical damage and premature aging.

EFAs can enhance your complexion by improving the skin’s texture and softness. They also help to keep skin cells moist and strong by reducing the amount of water lost.

Acne and congested skins

EFA’s help thin out the oil (sebum) in your skin so it doesn’t get stuck or trapped or stick to dead skin cells and clog your pores, it also makes extractions a lot easier for us and prevents the skin congestion from happening so frequently once it’s treated. The thicker your sebum the more chance for the P-Acne bacteria to come to the surface causing acne & breakouts.

Dry skin

Some people don’t produce much oil and although you might think this is great, what it means is you will age faster than an oilier skin type. You don’t have that natural lubrication or moisture in the skin from natural oil. You are also lacking a skin barrier as your skins barrier (protection) is made up of oil and water. Oil stops water loss from cells

Cellulite

Additionally, EFAs can help reduce the occurrence of cellulite, which happens when waste, water, and fat molecules become trapped below the skin’s surface. On top of controlling your intake of EFAs, drinking 8-12 glasses of water will also help with the breakdown of cellulite.

Oily skinned People

Perhaps the most surprising fact about essential fatty acids is that they are able to help in the fight against oily skin. Because helps the cell transference process (which helps to flush the fats and oils that tend to clog pores) as well as provide a healthy balance of moisture, they help reduce oiliness.

High cholesterol

People with high cholesterol needs to increase good fats, not be scared of them. EFA’s break up cholesterol, while aiding in fat transportation and metabolism.

If you still need more convincing here’s more benefits:

EFAs help organ muscles to contract, regulate stomach acid, help lower blood pressure, help maintain body temperature, regulate hormone levels, conditions which may be helped by EFAs: arthritis, attention deficit disorder, cardiovascular diseases, constipation, diabetes, diarrhoea, fatigue, immune deficiency, menopause, obesity, osteoporosis, premenstrual syndrome, rheumatoid arthritis, and skin conditions such as dry skin, eczema, and psoriasis.

Obviously it depends on what type and brand of EFA you choose to take, i recommend DMK EFA Ultra for skin as it has a blend of all EFA’s that are fantastic for healthier and more hydrated skin with results being seen in 2 weeks.